Yikes I Saw A Flea On My Dog

At some stage of your pet's lifespan every pet owner will have to deal with the problem of fleas, ticks and mites. If left untreated they can take over your pet's skin and coat so it is really important to keep it under control. It's best to stop the problem before it gets out of control. Rather treat your pet for a few fleas than treat the whole house for an infestation!

There are some misconceptions about fleas. It is not something that only happens to dirty animals! In fact it is probably more common in clean animals because fleas prefer a clean coat. Coming into contact with other animals also causes exposure to the problem and can start a flea problem in your home.

Fleas, mites and ticks are parasites with a short lifespan so they reproduce quickly. Female fleas can lay up to 25 eggs a day. So you can see just how quickly the problem can get out of hand! They tend to prefer warm conditions so summer and spring are the most troublesome times for pets and owners.

The main thing is that you want to catch the problem early! This means brushing your dog often and inspecting their coat. Fleas, ticks and mites are tiny black, brown crawling creatures that can even look like dirt. It may help for you to examine the fur under their ears and arms/legs.

Fleas like warm places. You can also see flea egg sacks and flea droppings in their fur if you look closely. If you still cannot see the fleas try combing your dog on a bright surface, something like a piece of paper should work well.

This is a problem that needs to be treated right away. Instead of heading for the pet store to buy expensive over-the-counter treatments, sprays or dips you should rather seek professional help right away. It will save you time. Your vet should have some pamphlets or handouts about flea control. Some vets even prescribe oral treatments if the problem is out severe.

If you choose to shop for the products yourself you will need to read the labels carefully to check that you are not inadvertently poisoning your pet! Never allow your pet to ingest any of the products you use; they are highly poisonous. It's also important to protect their eyes from these harsh chemicals. There is a lot of disagreement about whether or not flea collars work. They tend to kill fleas in a localized area around the collar.

It is important to treat your home for fleas as well. Fleas can survive in almost anything in your home-furniture, rugs and bedding. Any flea treatments will be pointless if the flea's eggs or fleas themselves remain in your living space.

To clean your home properly you will need to sanitize and clean the areas where the pet sleeps. Depending on the severity of the problem you may need to throw away blankets that have become infested with eggs. Often - just washing the affected bedding in hot water and some flea shampoo should do the trick. Rather safe than sorry though - if in doubt toss the bedding. Having to have your home fumigated will cost a lot more!

Fleas can become a nightmare for any pet owner. Rather stop the problem early - check your pet everyday for fleas and regularly use a preventative product approved by your vet.

If your dog has fleas, a great product you might want to check out is called Frontline Flea and Tick Spray (Click Here) (This stuff is also great for cats).

Until Next Time!

Jasmine

Gary Allison is a third generation of professional dog breeders. It all started with his grandparents in 1970 with the Boston Terriers and has expanded to Maltese, Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Pomeranians. He is also actively involved with dog rescue and has a website that showcases the puppies he occasionally has for sale at http://allmypuppiesonline.com. Gary is also the author of two consumer guides, http://carpetsecrets.com and http://movingsecretsguide.com. http://friskydog.blogspot.com

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you at times, you need to understand each stage of development a puppy goes through as it matures.

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage - 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage - 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage - 4-7 Weeks

From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them.

Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage - 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage - 3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

He might start biting you – play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem.

Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage - 4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance.

He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage - 6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

Click Here to Check Out "Dog Training Secrets!" - I
Highly Recommend It!

Until Next Time!

Jasmine

http://friskydog.blogspot.com

The Right Leash and Collar for Your Dog

In the past, when people spoke of training collars, they really generally were referring to “choke chains.” A choke chain is a metal chain with a sliding ring that is attached to your dog’s nylon or leather leash.

There’s a reason it’s called a choke chain. Because there is no limit on how tight the training collar can pull against your dog’s neck, there exists a very real possibility it can choke him, as well as cause other injuries, such as:

• Severely sprained necks
• Tracheal and esophageal damage
• Injured ocular vessels
• Cases of fainting
• Transient foreleg paralysis
• Laryngeal nerve paralysis
• Hind leg ataxia
  

And if you think I’m kidding about any of these injuries: I’m not; they’re all well-documented cases taken from hundreds of veterinary practices who have treated the dogs injured by choke chains.

Bottom line? In the hands of an experienced trainer, a choke chain can be used appropriately, but for the most part, your average person has no idea what an appropriate use of a choke chain entails.

My own personal preference is for a flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather, which can be used for training and everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog’s head. Any tighter and it may cause chafing and discomfort.

The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your dog’s coat, making it more flexible over time.

The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog’s size. For example, a wide, heavy or thick collar just won’t work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don’t forget an identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities to notify you when your pet is located.

Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn’t been well-trained and pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It’s a great way to restrain the pulling without getting in that choking “tug of war” that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on their small and fragile airways.

Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it’s largely a matter of personal preference.

I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it’s the perfect length for walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions.

Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The best models of this type have a one-button “braking” system that stops your dog from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead.

Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings: you can “reel” him in if you’re on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between you when you get to the park or an open space.
(c) 2004 by Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"
To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit: www.DogTrainingZone.com (Click Here)

Until Next Time!
Jasmine

http://friskydog.blogspot.com

Small Dogs - Different Breeds, Different Personalities

Small dog breeds are great pets, but since their personalities are all different, it's a good idea to look at their individual characteristics to see if they fit with your lifestyle.

Pomeranians:
Pomeranians developed from a much larger dog breed and seem to have retained the mellow character. They are good with children if they have been raised with them from puppyhood. They are playful and active. They tend to bark and require daily grooming.

Chihuahuas are an interesting small breed. I have raised several herds - and that is a good word for a group of chihuahuas - and their temperment is a bit different from other small dogs. They can be very aggressive towards other dog breeds. I adopted one chihuahua who kept attacking a German Shepherd who finally bit her. After she got out of the hospital she went after him again. I ended up with her because she wasn't going to quit attacking bigger dogs. Some chihuahuas will growl and nip at small children. Good points - chihuahuas are very loyal and affectionate. They don't require as much exercise as other small breeds so they make ideal pets for apartment dwellers or older people. They are good with cats.

Boston Terrier:
Good with children and other animals, the Boston terrier is a good small dog for families. They are suitable for any lifestyle. They can be aggressive chewers. Their short coat is easy to keep clean.

Jack Russell Terrier:
This dog breed is only for the most active owners. They love to chase balls, can hop onto a table with ease and can be aggressive if not trained properly. Very intelligent and lively, they require a lot of attention and discipline.

Maltese:
This small dog breed can be very protective of its owner. It is not suitable for families with children because they are very fragile.

Shitzu or Shih tzu:
Good natured and non-aggressive, these friendly little dogs make great family pets. They require daily brushing but their hair is non-shedding. Good with other animals.

Bichon Frise:
These little dogs make good family pets. They are good with children as well as other animals. Very intelligent, easy to train and lively. Their coat doesn't shred.

Dachshund:
Not a hound but a terrier bred to go after vermin, the breed is lively and affectionate. Good with family members but will become aggressive to children outside the family. They make good watchdogs and will bark frequently to alert their owners.

Pekinese:
Very fierce and loyal, these little dogs are not good around children or other animals. These are good dogs for the elderly. Their coats require a good deal of grooming.

Skye Terrier:
Great with children, okay with other dogs but not tolerant of cats. This unique breed makes a fine pet. Distrustful of strangers.

The next step after selecting a breed is to find a reputable breeder.

If you would like some more information about dog breeds why not check out your local library or buy used books on Amazon.com.

There are several books which I recommend:
Click Here for the Encyclopedia of Dog Breeds

and

Click Here for "Dog Breeds for Dummies"

Happy Dog Hunting

Until Next Time!

Jasmine

Pat Schraier has not only owned chihuahuas but a cocker spaniel, a dachshund, a black lab, a boxer, and a terrier mix. Visit the website http://www.dog-match.com for breed information, health care and other resources.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pat_Scraier http://friskydog.blogspot.com

Does Your Dog Have Bad Breath?

Your cute little pooch is the joy of your life, you love to be around him….Until you get too close!

Bad breath in dogs can be a common problem and while easily taken care of, it can be detrimental to their health if left unattended.

Bad breath can be blamed on a number of culprits. A couple of the most common are dental or periodontal disease. This can all be associated to your dog not properly chewing his/her food (i.e. not allowing saliva to do its job), having a broken tooth or dental plaque and tartar.

Also, your dog could be suffering an internal problem that is causing his/her bad breath. He/she could be having problems with kidney or liver function. The best thing to do in extreme cases is to consult with your vet.

The first tool in battling bad breath in dogs is a toothbrush and some enzymatic toothpaste. Yep, that’s right, fido needs his/her teeth brushed regularly.

Almost 80% of dogs over 3 years old have periodontal disease. This is very serious and is causes a buildup on the teeth and gums that results in deterioration of the gums, teeth and bones. Not only does it cause bad breath, but the bacteria can get into the bloodstream and threaten the health of your dogs vital organs. In fact, proper dental care may help your dog live up to 5 years longer!

You should brush your dogs teeth every day. At first this may really be a struggle, but after a while it will become routine and eventually you and your dog may even enjoy this time together.

There are two types of brushes - a special dog brush which looks pretty much like a regular toothbrush and one is a rubber finger brush with little rubber bristles that you place over your finger. You may need to experiment to see which one is best for your dog.

Never use human toothpaste on your dog - it can hurt him/her! You should use special Enzymatic Toothpaste that will help kill the bacteria. Plus it comes in flavors dogs like like chicken and beef (I know my dog loves it).

Another way to insure your dogs breath smells sweet as well as his/her overall health is to make sure that you are meeting your dog’s nutritional needs. Do not feed your dog table scraps—ever. And, never feed your puppy or dog candy (especially chocolate!). Give your dog the best food designed for his/her body type and breed.

Finally, you’ll want to be sure to have your dog’s teeth brushed and professionally treated by a veterinarian every six to twenty-four months. After your first consultation, ask your vet what schedule he/she believes is best. It can vary dependent upon breed and lifestyle. Your dog will have to undergo a general anesthesia in the vet’s office before the brushing.

For older dogs, talk to your vet, especially if it’s been awhile (up to a few years) since your dog’s last cleaning. Some vets will not put older dogs under anesthesia for regular cleanings.

If you haven’t tended to your pets dental needs in a while, you may find he/she needs a dental cleaning and scaling right away. He/she may even need to have some teeth removed. Once you have this taken care of however you can start on a routine of daily brushing and he/she may never need to get a dental from the vet again.

Once you take care of any buildup and start on your brushing routine, your dogs breath should be sweet in no time!

Do you have the cutest pet? Click Here to Find Out!

Until Next time!

Jasmine :)
Frisky Dog

Lee Dobbins is an avid dog lover and writes for many pet related sites. Find out more about dog care at the webs Pet Center or learn about the loveable pug at The Pug PagesFrisky Dog
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lee_Dobbins

How To Administer Ear Medication for Your Dog - Painlessly

Has your dog ever had an ear infection? Likely your vet will have prescribed ear medications for treatment or prevention of future ear infections.

The problem with ear medications is that they can be quite uncomfortable for your dog, the medication often needs to be administered in liquid form directly into the ear canal.

Your dog may find this uncomfortable and start avoiding you, or even becoming aggressive towards you.

If your dog becomes aggressive, consult with your vet and seek help from a competent behavioral trainer knowledgeable in desensitisation and counter-conditioning. Avoid anyone who suggests punishing your dog for this behavior.
If the problem is only mild, then you can begin this simple and effective desensitisation procedure yourself.

Have some small, yummy treats ready. Do this exercise before a meal, not after. The exercise involves forming a positive association with the ear medication and having the ear touched by pairing with yummy treats (for more information, Google "Pavlov").

The first step is to have your dog used to having his ears handled - without medication. Touch the outside of his ear and give a treat, do this a few times. Then touch the inside of the ear and give a treat. Don't stick your finger into the ear canal, just touch the actual ear and give a treat. Do this a few times, as many times a day as you can. Gently massage your dogs ears if he likes it, tell him how good he is!

When your dog seems to enjoy having his ears touched, show him the medicine bottle and give a treat. You can do this a number of times.
Next, leave the lid on the medicine bottle and touch the inside of his ear with it, then give a treat. This step is probably the most critical, particularly if your dog has already had ear medication and doesn't like it.

Now we get to the point where we need to administer some medication. I would suggest you administer just a small amount unless your vet insists upon a full dosage all in one go. Feed treats while you administer the medication, and after. Now tell your dog how proud you are while you gently massage the outside of his ears (if he enjoys having his ears massaged, of course, we are building positive associations!

Remember to keep it positive, don't move ahead too fast, and give plenty of treats and praise as you go!

Until Next Time!

Jasmine :)

http://friskydog.blogspot.com

Aidan Bindoff is intensely interested in dog behaviour and training and works to remediate fearful, anxious and aggressive dogs in Australia. For more information visit http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/traininglevels/
http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aidan_Bindoff

Dog Training: Success Tips

A well-mannered dog is a pleasure to be with and is a terrific companion. You can literally set yourself up to be successful in raising a puppy that will be obedient.

Throughout the first year of your dog’s life with you, take the time and effort to plan your dog’s training and exercise with patience and persistence. Here are some strategies to get you started on the right path.

Plan the physical space that your puppy will be living in. Consider safety issues such as a fenced-in yard or a crate or gated space inside where your puppy can be kept when you cannot actively monitor it. Puppy-proof your living space to ensure that dangerous items like household cleaners and electrical cords are secured. Close off areas that you do not want your dog to enter. Keep your tables and countertops clear of food so that your pet doesn’t develop a counter surfing habit.

Crates should be used when you cannot watch your puppy or when you and/or your puppy just simply need a break. The crate should be a place where your puppy feels safe and comfortable. Remember that dogs like den-like places and the crate will serve this purpose. Crates are very useful for house-breaking dogs.

Choose a crate that your puppy can grow into. Dogs will never eliminate where they sleep so make sure that when your puppy is small that they aren’t urinating in one area of the crate and sleeping in another. If this happens, block off part of the crate and make the area inhabited by your puppy too small for him/her to find a place to go to the bathroom.

If you are crating your puppy at night, make sure that he/she is tired and well exercised before putting him/her in. Dogs are social animals and don’t like to be alone at night so place the crate near your bed at night. When placing your puppy in the crate, if he/she whines or cries, ignore it. You must wait them out or it will just get worse.

It is a good idea to make your puppy feel comfortable in the crate by putting some of his/her favorite toys inside. Here is a great trick: show your puppy a special treat and place it inside the crate and shut the door. Your puppy will literally be dying to get inside and have the treat. When you let him/her in to get it, gently close the door behind him and praise him.

Dogs must become accustomed to being left on their own. This way they will not suffer stress when left alone and then engage in destructive behavior. Again, it is imperative to leave them in a safe and comfortable environment. To help them be alone do not fuss over them before you leave. Just be casual and even ignore them when you leave. This way your dog will not be overly emotional every time you leave the house.

It is a great idea to exercise your dog to tucker him/her out before you leave the house for long periods of time. You should also leave your dog with something to keep him/her busy. Chew toys, Kongs stuffed with treats, marrow bones, and so on work very well here. Leave your stereo on with some relaxing classical music to keep your dog company while you are out.

Good management on your part is required for effective house training. It is important to know that puppies under four months have little bladder control but they can often hold it through the night as their metabolism slows down. A dogs’ instinct is to move away from their sleeping area to go and the difference between inside and outside must be taught to them.

A regular feeding and sleeping schedule is vital to house training. Make sure to take your puppy outside after meals and upon awakening from sleeping. If they don’t go right away, keep an eye on them. Encourage them to go and while they are going say something like “do your business” so that they associate that phrase with eliminating. Soon you can use phrases such as “do your business” almost as commands and your dog will follow your direction. Remember to praise your dog lavishly after they go where you want them to.

Set yourself up for success by being attentive to all the things you can do to provide an optimal environment for your puppy to learn and grow. Combine this with daily exercise, discipline, and affection and you will have a fabulous companion.

A great resource for your pet supplies is Petco. You can either visit their store in person or shop online at Petco.com. I just ordered a new bed online for my dog (Sasha) and received free shipping. I am not sure if Petco offers free shipping on all products, but you might want to check it out.

Until Next Time!

Jasmine

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Article Source: Michael Russell* Your Dog Training Guide* Visit us for more information.

Ring Worm in Dogs

Ringworm is one of the most common diseases in pets, especially dogs. Unlike its name, Ringworm is not a worm but fungi called Dermatophytes that thrives on dead tissues present on skin surface and follows circular path to spread infection.

Ringworm is an infectious skin disease and your pet usually picks it up from his surroundings like kennels, rodent burrows or from other animals who are already infected. There are about 35 species of ringworm that can affect dogs. The most common is ‘Mircosporum Canis’, which accounts for majority of ringworm cases

One symptom of ringworms in dogs is a lesion on the skin that looks like a rapidly growing circular patch of broken hair. The patch may look inflamed and may appear to have dandruff-like flakes on it. The most common areas where it can occur are face, ear tips, tails and paws.

If you find any of these symptoms, take your pet to the veterinarian. He may diagnose the disease by plucking hairs from the infected area and examining it under ultra violet light. On finding fungi traits, he may advise some anti fungal pills or topical medications for your pet

Humans need to take some precautions since ringworm is an infectious disease. Be sure to keep kids away from an infected pet, and adults should wear gloves when handling any items that have come in contact with the animal. Also keep your dog neat and clean and clip his/her hairs short since longer hairs promote unhygienic conditions.

Although, ringworm is a mild disorder the problems due to its infectious nature and slow recovery time (2-3 weeks) can be problematic.

After your dog is done with his/her treatment you should use a very gentle shampoo such as Oatmeal & Aloe shampoo . This shampoo gently cleans as it heals and re-moisturizes dry and irritated skin.

Until Next Time!

Jasmine :)

Ring Worms provides detailed information about ring worm, human ring worm and more. Ring Worms is affiliated with Dry Skin Lotion.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marcus_Peterson

How To Socialize Your Puppy

Teaching a puppy or a dog proper socialization skills is vital to the safety of both your dog and people with whom he/she comes into contact. A properly socialized dog is a happy dog, and a joy to be around for both humans and animals. A poorly socialized dog, or one with no socialization at all, is a danger to other animals, to people and even your family.

Socialization is best done when the puppy is as young as possible. The socialization lessons a young puppy learns are difficult to undo, and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the puppy learns will affect his/her behavior for the rest of her life.

A dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards animals or humans. A properly socialized dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive.

Dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it. Improperly socialized dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations. A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of problems.

Socialization is best done when the puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the important social skills. It is possible to socialize an older puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.

There are some definite do’s and don’ts when it comes to properly socializing any puppy. Let’s start with what to do. Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.

Socialization Do’s

• Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the puppy as possible. If a puppy’s first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the puppy’s mind. In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime. It is better to take things slow and avoid having the puppy become frightened or injured.

• Try inviting your friends over to meet the new puppy. It is important to included as many different people as possible in the puppy’s circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of many diverse ethnic backgrounds and ages.

• Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy. It is important for the puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, rabbits and other animals he/she is likely to meet. It is of course important to make sure that all animals the puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.

• Take the puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, parks, and on walks around the neighborhood. Try to expose the puppy to places where there will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.

• Take the puppy for frequent short rides in the car. During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside.

• Introduce your puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar. The puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him. Allow and encourage the puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.

• Get the puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones. Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your puppy will perceive as totally new.

• Get the puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc. Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.

• Introduce the puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs. Also introduce the puppy to the collar and leash, so he/she will be comfortable with these items.

Socialization Don'ts:

There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a puppy. These socialization don’ts include:

• Do not place the puppy on the ground when strange animals are present. An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the puppy and hurt his socialization.

• Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior. When the puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to soothe it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse. Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.

Most of all make sure you give your puppy plenty of attention.

Don't forget summer is flea and tick season so be sure to protect your little ball of fur. I purchase my flea & tick medication online at PetCareRx. If you would like to check it out, simply click on the link below.

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Until Next Time!
Jasmine

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